Kind Of Our Own Island

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Sam looks out over the Gulf of Mexico from the top of Fort Jefferson

Garden Key is a 16 acre island inside Dry Tortugas National Park, a few hours by ferry west from Key West. It is the home of Fort Jefferson, a huge unfinished Civil War era masonry structure waiting to be explored by the hundred or more tourists ferried there daily for a five hour stay on this idyllic Caribbean island. There are multiple beaches, pretty good snorkeling, history lessons, and hermit crabs. 

Sam walks across the bridge into Fort Jefferson on Garden Key
The only entrance to Fort Jefferson. The dark room on the other side of the bridge held a second set of doors, and the interior walls of the room had gunports which would have allowed defending soldiers to fire on the invaders from point blank range as they attempted to breach the second set of doors. A meatgrinder.
A pelican watches the Yankee Freedom III dock on Garden Key in the Dry Tortugas. Taken while snorkeling and camping.
The Yankee Freedom III brings the party
Sam snorkeling in Dry Tortugas National Park by Key West Florida
swimming with the fishes

If you want to explore the island more than the average visitor, you have the option to camp overnight. This is highly recommended, because it’s a completely different atmosphere after the ferry leaves at 3:00 pm. You’ll be one of maybe 10 or 15 campers on the island, and together with the skeleton crew of national park rangers who live in housing inside the fort, you’ve basically got your own private Caribbean island. We stayed 3 days and two nights, and there couldn’t have been more than 20 people on the island total. It felt even more deserted than that. Sam and I had the beaches entirely to ourselves several times. 

North Beach on Garden Key, Dry Tortugas National Park, Fort Jefferson
Sam chilling in the ocean on the North Beach near Fort Jefferson in Dry Tortugas National Park
relaxing on our private beach
Hermit crabs swarm over food on Garden Key in Dry Tortugas National Park
So many hermit crabs
Birds perch atop the dock pilings in the Dry Tortugas National Park. Taken with a Telesin Dome housing while snorkeling

Camping is cheap, the ferry ride is not. Sea planes also bring multiple small waves of passengers to the island, but stop service around 5pm or so. I don’t believe you can camp from a seaplane.  Fresh water can’t be gathered on the island, so you’ll bring gallons of your own. Plus a cooler for drinks and food to cook on the charcoal grills that are provided. 

Sam standing in the exterior corridor of Fort Jefferson
The obligatory symmetrical shot down the corridor. It is pretty neat in person though.
small gunpowder magazine in Fort Jefferson, Dry Tortugas National Park on Garden Key
Looking down at the small “magazine.” This was a covered storage area for gunpowder back in the day
Looking out the cannon port toward the Gulf of Mexico from Fort Jefferson
The firing arc. Hurricane-damaged moat wall in the distance.

Last time we stayed here, we only stayed a single night and regretted not staying longer. This time, 2 nights was perfect for Sam. I could have stayed one more. 

Fort Jefferson moat at sunset while camping in Dry Tortugas National Park, Garden Key
The clouds in Florida are so dramatic. The moat was built to repel invaders, and to lessen the impact of the sea on the structure.
Loggerhead Key as seen at sunset from Dry Tortugas National Park, while camping on Garden Key near Fort Jefferson
The Loggerhead Key lighthouse in the distance.

Some of the designated camp sites are sheltered from the eastern winds that can signal incoming Florida storms. Other sites are exposed. It’s very hot at night in the summer, and gets even hotter if you’re in a sheltered site. I would recommend occupying an unsheltered site for the added nighttime breeze, but only if you bring a wind-worthy shelter and know how to pitch it. Our Stratospire II performed admirably during the 25 mph winds that popped up several times on our second day. Bring stakes. 

Interior shot of Fort Jefferson on Garden Key in Dry Tortugas National Park
These compartments were used at various times as living quarters, cannon emplacements, and prison cells.
Sam looks down from the upper level of Fort Jefferson at the ruins of the old barracks building
Sam sits atop a three story high spiral staircase looking down on the parade ground. The brick ruins below belonged to an unfinished three story barracks that was to house about 1500 soldiers.

The snorkeling is best around the old pier support ruins, as they can be 15-20 feet deep and grow lots of coral. It’s not too entertaining around the outside of the moat wall. I have yet to kick out to the reefs that are a few hundred yards away from the island, but people have said the snorkeling is good out there. The visibility varies with the mood of the ocean. Unfortunately, swimming and boating aren’t allowed inside the moat. I wish we had a sea kayak, as nearby Loggerhead Key is within sight and paddling distance, and would add quite a bit of interest to the trip. 

Underwater view while snorkeling the South Coaling Dock Pilings on Garden Key in Dry Tortugas National Park
The view snorkeling in the South Coaling Dock Ruins
Sam snorkeling in Dry Tortugas National Park off of Garden Key west of Key West
view of fish while snorkeling the Dry Tortugas near Key West
The South Coaling Dock pilings are a haven for fish. I have no idea what kind. This kind, apparently.
view of fish while snorkeling underwater off of Garden Key in the Dry Tortugas National Park near Key West Florida
and this kind

Bush and Long Keys, the two other “wings” of the island, are closed to visitors from February to September so a lot of birds can get together and make a lot more birds. I guess they don’t like us watching. This doesn’t affect the fort or the camping or anything else that’s very important. 

Sunrise overlooking the North Coaling Dock Ruins while camping on Garden Key in Dry Tortugas National Park near Fort Jefferson
Sunrise overlooking the old North Coaling Dock Ruins, which was used to refuel ships during the steam power days

If you’ve ever wanted your very own Caribbean island for a few days, I don’t know if you can beat this one. Check it out. 

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